Koh Phangan

Via Koh Samui (ferries every hour or so from Nathon, Maenam, and Bangrak, 30–60 minutes) or directly from Surat Thani by combo bus-and-boat ticket (2.5–4.5 hours depending on the pier). From Bangkok, the classic route is an overnight train or bus to Surat Thani plus the morning ferry. Flying to Samui and hopping across is the fast option.

Every full moon, on Haad Rin Sunrise Beach, with the date occasionally shifted a day for Buddhist holidays, so check the current calendar before booking. Expect a ฿100–200 beach entry fee, packed boats from Samui, and Haad Rin accommodation requiring multi-night minimums around the date. If you want quiet, the west coast barely notices the party. If you want the party, book Haad Rin weeks ahead.

Haad Rin for the party scene; Thong Sala and the nearby west coast (Sritanu, Haad Yao) for yoga, sunsets, and long quiet beaches; Thong Nai Pan in the northeast for the prettiest resort bays. Roads to the north and east involve genuinely steep hills, and I'd factor that in before renting a scooter to cross the island daily.

No, most of the island runs at a completely different speed. Outside Haad Rin you'll find retreat centers, family resorts, empty northern beaches, and a jungle interior of waterfalls. Plenty of visitors come specifically for the wellness scene and never see a bucket bar. The party is one beach, one night a month. The island is the other 95%.