Bottle Beach (Haad Khuat)

The lack of a road is the whole point here. You get to this wide crescent of sand on Koh Phangan's north coast either by longtail from Chaloklum, about 15 minutes and ฿100–150 a head, or on foot along a jungle trail that takes 60 to 90 minutes and will leave you dripping. Most people take the boat. I'd say the walkers get the better arrival, but only if you're honest with yourself about the heat.

What's waiting is soft sand, jungle hills behind, and water calm enough for a proper long swim rather than a splash. There are a few simple bungalow operations and beach restaurants, and that's it, so don't come expecting much beyond a plate of food and a place to lie down. The short scramble up to the viewpoint at the end of the bay is worth doing, and it's the one thing I'd insist on. Day trippers see a busy beach. Anyone who stays a night gets it near enough to themselves once the boats have gone.