Thaiseree Restaurant

The useful thing here is the clock. Doors open at 9.30am and stay open until 9pm, seven days a week, which in a town where you're up early for Erawan or the bridge and back at odd hours is worth more than any amount of atmosphere. Late breakfast, a proper lunch between sights, an early dinner when you stumble back off the minivan. It covers all three.

It's on Thanon Sangchuto, the main road through Kanchanaburi town, so you'll walk past it whether you mean to or not. Mid-range prices, meaning you're paying a bit above a street stall and considerably less than the riverside places that build the view into the bill. Expect casual, unfussy Thai cooking rather than anything designed for a photograph. That's the trade and I think it's a fair one.

If you want it quiet, aim for the mid-afternoon lull, roughly 2pm to 5pm, when the lunch crowd has cleared and the dinner one hasn't arrived. Groups in particular will have an easier time of it then.