Maenam Beach

Come here if you want a long, slow beach day rather than a scene. This is the north coast, several kilometres of sand backed by palms and low-key bungalows, and it's noticeably calmer than the southern and eastern shores. The water is flat enough for easy swimming, and Koh Pha Ngan sits right across the channel, close enough to pick out on a clear day. There are jet skis at certain points if you want the noise, but most people are here to walk, swim and eat something under a tree.

The honest bit: cleanliness varies. Some stretches are lovely, others collect debris near the waterline, and at least one reviewer walked away disgusted and went to Lipa Noi instead. Given how long the beach is, that's fixable. Turn up early, walk a few hundred metres in either direction, and settle where the sand looks right to you rather than parking at the first access path you find.

A handful of casual restaurants and bars sit just off the sand, so food and a cold drink are never far. Don't expect a polished resort strip. That's the appeal.