Nimmanhaemin Road

This is where Chiang Mai stopped pretending it was only about temples. The street runs through Su Thep on the west side of the city, and what fills it is independent cafés, organic kitchens, international restaurants, art galleries and small boutiques, with a crowd of students from the nearby university, expats and travellers who want something other than the old town.

The real finds are off the main road. The numbered sois branch off either side and tend to be quieter and more interesting than the frontage, so my advice is to pick one at random and follow it. Pavements are shaded, shopfronts open onto the street, and the place ticks over from breakfast until late. Prices swing wildly depending on which door you walk through, which means you can do this street on a student budget or spend properly on a long brunch. Weekends are the busiest.

I'd give it half a day at minimum. Wear shoes you can walk in, because there's no other sensible way to see it.