Fah Lanna Spa - Old City

Book this one before you land, or at least a day or two out. It's on Wiang Kaew Road inside the moat, a short walk or tuk-tuk ride from most Old City guesthouses, and it draws a steady stream of people who've heard the same thing you have, that the traditional Thai treatments here are done properly, not rushed through on a conveyor belt.

What you're getting is the classic northern Thai approach, with therapists who take their time. That's the appeal and also the catch, because a proper Thai massage isn't a gentle hour of scented oil. There's stretching involved, and pressure. If you want something purely soothing, ask when you book rather than finding out halfway through. First-timers tend to come out converted anyway.

The doors don't open until midday, which trips people up. No early-morning treatment before a temple crawl here, so plan it as an afternoon or evening thing instead, ideally after you've walked yourself into the ground around Wat Chedi Luang and the surrounding lanes.