White Market

Come hungry, and come early. This is the night market I'd point people toward if they've done Fisherman's Village and found it a bit polished for their liking. Roughly half the crowd here is Thai, which tells you most of what you need to know about the pricing and the cooking. Doors open at 3pm and it runs to 11pm, seven days a week, but the market only really wakes up once the heat drops.

Food is the reason to go. Regulars talk about the fresh spring rolls, gyoza, yellow noodles, pad kra pao, and a burger somewhere in the 80 to 90 baht range. The bingsu, shaved ice that's light rather than heavy, gets its own fan club. There's plenty of seating spread through the site, and the place stays reasonably tidy, though eating outdoors on Samui means the odd fly around the tables. A handful of clothing and accessory stalls fill in the gaps between kitchens if you fancy a browse.