Destination guide
Railay Beach Guide
Krabi's roadless peninsula, 15 minutes by longtail from Ao Nang
Railay is a small peninsula between Ao Nang and Krabi Town that limestone cliffs cut off from the mainland, so there's no road in and everyone arrives by boat. The usual way is a longtail from Ao Nang beach, 10 to 15 minutes for ฿100 a person. Four beaches share the headland. Railay West is the swimming beach, Railay East is the mangrove shore with the cheaper rooms and the bars, Phra Nang at the southern tip is the one in the photos, and Tonsai, around the northern headland, belongs to the climbers.
It's still one of my favorite trips in Thailand. You can see the highlights in a day from Ao Nang for ฿200 in boat fares, but I'd stay two nights. The whole peninsula is scenic and peaceful at the right times, and those times are before the day boats arrive and after the shared boats stop around 18:00.
Arriving in Krabi
Where to stay in Krabi
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Key Facts
The longtail from Ao Nang is ฿100
Buy a paper ticket at the boat club booths on the Ao Nang beachfront, not from the driver. Boats leave when about eight passengers have gathered, from roughly 08:00 to 18:00, and a return is ฿200. In the evening the fare rises to about ฿150, and once the shared boats stop, a private boat costs about ฿600–800.
Expect a wet landing on Railay West
The Ao Nang boats run up onto the sand at Railay West, so you step off into knee-deep water. Boats from Krabi Town and Ao Nam Mao use the floating pier on Railay East, the easier landing with a suitcase.
Four beaches, all within a 20-minute walk
Railay West to Railay East is about five minutes on the walking street, Railay East to Phra Nang about ten on the cliff path, and Railay West to Tonsai 15 to 20 over a jungle path, or along the rocks at low tide.
The Ao Nam Mao speedboat runs all year
A speedboat crosses from Ao Nam Mao pier, a few minutes east of Ao Nang, to Railay East every 30 minutes from 08:00 to 18:00, for ฿150 one way or ฿250 return. It runs to a timetable rather than waiting to fill, and it's the steadiest way across when the sea is rough.
Bring cash from the mainland
Railay has only a few ATMs and Tonsai has none, and Thai ATMs charge ฿250–350 per foreign-card withdrawal. Food and drink cost more than in Ao Nang, because everything arrives by boat.
January and February are the driest
Krabi's weather station records about 32 mm of rain in January and 43 mm in February, against 324 mm in October, the wettest month. From May to October, swell on the Ao Nang side can delay or stop the longtails.
The Four Beaches, and Which Is Which
Railay is one headland with four beaches, listed here in the order I'd send most people. Only two of them, Phra Nang and Railay West, are for swimming.
1. Phra Nang Beach, Southern tip
The view in the photosI proposed to my wife on this beach in 2023, so I'm not neutral about it. It's the prettiest of the four, a short beach under an overhanging cliff, with clear water and karst islands offshore. At its western end is the Princess Cave shrine, where locals leave offerings and carved wooden figures for Phra Nang, the princess spirit believed to live in the cave. The beach and the shrine are free, and the toilets cost ฿10.
It's also where every Four Islands boat in the province stops, so from about 11:00 to 15:00 the sand is crowded and the shallows are full of longtails. Come before 10:00 or after the tour boats leave and you'll see why it's so often ranked among Thailand's best beaches.
- Getting there
- About ten minutes on the paved path along the cliff from the south end of Railay East, or 15 from Railay West.
- When to go
- Before 10:00, or late afternoon.
2. Railay West, West side
Swimming and sunsetThe main swimming beach, a curve of white sand between two walls of limestone, with the resorts set back behind the trees and the Ao Nang longtails pulled up at the water's edge. The sea is far clearer than at Ao Nang, and the beach faces west, so this is where Railay gathers for the sunset.
The catch is the boats. Longtails land and leave along the beach all day, and on a busy afternoon that's a lot of engines for one bay. Swim at either end, away from where the boats come in.
- Getting there
- Longtails from Ao Nang beach land here.
- When to go
- Early morning for a swim, evening for the sunset.
3. Railay East, East side
Cheaper rooms, bars and the pierRailay East isn't a swimming beach. The shore is mangrove and mudflat, and at low tide the water goes out a long way. What it has is the boardwalk behind it, with the cheaper resorts, the restaurants, the bars that stay open latest and the climbing schools, plus the floating pier where the boats from Krabi Town and Ao Nam Mao come in.
It's also where both walks worth doing start, the path to Phra Nang and the scramble up to the viewpoint. If you stay on Railay on a budget, you'll probably sleep here and walk five minutes to swim on the west side.
- Getting there
- Five minutes across the peninsula from Railay West, or by boat to the floating pier.
- When to go
- Evening, for dinner and the bars.
4. Tonsai Beach, Around the northern headland
Climbers and the cheapest bedsTonsai is the next bay north and the climbers' base, with cliffs rising straight off the beach and a scruffier, cheaper feel than Railay. Its own longtails run to Ao Nang and Nopparat Thara and stop around sunset.
It has shrunk in recent years. The Andaman, Banyan Tree, Thiew Khao and Saithong bungalows have closed for good, leaving about ten places to stay, and the bay runs on generators. Expect daytime power cuts, cold water, no air conditioning in most rooms and no ATM. If that sounds like the point, it's the most relaxed corner of the peninsula.
- Getting there
- A 15–20 minute jungle path from the north end of Railay West, or along the rocks at low tide. Skip the path with heavy bags or after rain.
- When to go
- Late afternoon, to watch the climbers.
Every Way to Railay, Compared
| From | Boat | Time | Cost | Lands at |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ao Nang beach | Shared longtail, leaves at about 8 people | 10–15 minutes | ฿100 one way, ฿200 return, about ฿150 in the evening | Railay West (wet landing) |
| Ao Nang, after the shared boats stop | Private longtail | 10–15 minutes | About ฿600–800 a boat | Railay West |
| Ao Nam Mao pier | Speedboat every 30 minutes, 08:00–18:00 | 10–15 minutes | ฿150 one way, ฿250 return | Railay East floating pier |
| Krabi Town, Chao Fah pier | Shared longtail, leaves at about 8 people | About 45 minutes | About ฿150 | Railay East |
| Phuket (Rassada, Bang Rong, Laem Hin) | Speedboat | 1–2 hours | About ฿880–1,100 | Railay East |
| Koh Lanta (Saladan pier) | Speedboat | About 1.5 hours | About ฿1,200 | Railay East |
The shared longtails wait to fill, so in low season expect to wait 30–60 minutes. A low tide or a rough sea can move the Ao Nang departures to Nopparat Thara pier, a short ride up the coast. Speedboat times from Phuket and Koh Lanta change by season, and the route guides linked below have the timetables.
Getting to Railay
From Ao Nang, walk to the boat club ticket booths on the beachfront, buy a paper ticket and wait for the boat to fill. It's 10 to 15 minutes across, and you'll land in the shallows on Railay West, so wear shoes you can get wet and carry your bag above the water. With a big suitcase, I'd skip that boat and cross from Ao Nam Mao instead, a few minutes' drive east of Ao Nang, where the speedboat docks at the floating pier on Railay East and carries one large suitcase free.
From Krabi Town, longtails leave Chao Fah pier for Railay East when about eight people have gathered, for about ฿150 and 45 minutes. There's no timetable, so it suits a flexible morning. From Krabi airport, the shared van to Ao Nang costs ฿150–200 and takes 35 to 45 minutes, and a taxi is ฿700–1,000 a car.
Railay is also a stop on the island boats. Speedboats from Phuket land at Railay East in 1 to 2 hours for about ฿880–1,100, and boats from Koh Phi Phi, Koh Lanta and Koh Lipe call there too. Ask for Railay when you book, because a ticket to Ao Nang can leave you a longtail short.
Things to Do on Railay
Railay is a beach stay first. Everything below fits around a morning on Phra Nang and an afternoon on Railay West.
The viewpoint and the lagoon
The trail starts on the path from Railay East to Phra Nang, at a red-mud slope with fixed ropes. It's 10 to 20 minutes up to the viewpoint over both bays, and it's a scramble rather than a hike, steep, slippery and hand over hand in places. Past the viewpoint a second route drops into Sa Phra Nang, the lagoon enclosed by cliffs, through a narrow squeeze and a near-vertical rope section.
I'd only do the lagoon in dry weather, in shoes with grip and with nothing in your hands, and I'd skip both routes after rain. The lagoon's water depends on the tide and can be murky, so go for the climb and the view rather than the swim.
Rock climbing
Railay and Tonsai have more than 700 bolted routes, from beginner slabs to hard overhangs, many of them straight off the sand. You don't need experience. Half-day beginner courses run about ฿1,500 with gear, and the schools on Railay East and Tonsai run them daily in season. Basecamp Tonsai's own price list starts at ฿2,000 for a half day of bouldering and runs to ฿7,500 for a three-day course.
Even if you never tie in, sit on Railay East in the late afternoon and watch the climbers on the cliffs above the boardwalk. It costs nothing.
Diamond Cave
Phra Nang Nai, the Diamond Cave, is behind Railay East, a short cave on a raised walkway with stalactites, Buddhist shrines and a colony of bats. It's open from 08:00 to 17:30 and costs ฿200, and you'll be through it in 15 to 20 minutes. Opinion on whether that's worth ฿200 is split. On a rainy afternoon it's a good half hour.
Island trips from Railay
You don't need to go back to Ao Nang for the islands. Longtail skippers on the floating pier at Railay East sell private trips, with the Four Islands loop of Phra Nang, Tup, Chicken and Poda as the standard run, and speedboats leave the same pier for Koh Phi Phi.
Sunset and the evening
Railay West is the sunset beach, and once the last shared boats leave around 18:00 the day-trippers go with them. We ate most of our meals on Railay Walking Street, the strip of restaurants and shops between Railay West and Railay East, which is where you'll find dinner on the peninsula. After dark the evening moves to the bars along the boardwalk on Railay East, with The Last Bar and Bang Bang Bar at its far end.
Day Trip or Stay the Night?
A day trip works. Take a longtail from Ao Nang at 08:00, walk to Phra Nang before the tour boats arrive, climb to the viewpoint while it's cool, swim on Railay West in the afternoon and be back on a boat before 18:00. That's ฿200 in boat fares for the best of the peninsula.
But I'd stay. Railay's best hours are the ones the day-trippers miss, with Phra Nang empty at 08:00, the sunset from Railay West and an evening with no traffic, because there are no roads. Two nights is about right, one full day for the beaches and the viewpoint and a second for a climbing course or the islands. Pick a room that's easy to reach with your bags, on Railay East for the floating pier, or on Railay West if you'll take the wet landing.
Arriving in Krabi
Top-Ranked Hotels in Krabi
The top of my ranked list of the 10 best hotels in Krabi. Each button opens the hotel on Booking.com with your dates filled in.
#2Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort4.7 (3,574 reviews)
Luxury resort near Krabi combining a championship golf course, full-service spa, and tropical grounds.
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#4Anana Ecological Resort Krabi4.7 (1,619 reviews)
Eco-minded resort in Ao Nang offering spa treatments, private pool suites, and a calm retreat with easy beach access.
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#5The Tubkaak Krabi Boutique Resort4.7 (1,506 reviews)
A beachfront boutique resort in Krabi offering pool villas, bay views, two restaurants, and a spa.
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Where to Stay on Railay
Railay West has the resorts closest to the swimming beach, and the highest prices. I stayed at Railay Village Resort & Spa, on the Railay West side, with its villas set around a garden pool. Railay East has most of the mid-range and budget rooms along the boardwalk, five minutes' walk from the sand. Rayavadee, the peninsula's luxury resort, spreads across the headland between Railay East and Phra Nang, with its villas set inside the cliffs. Tonsai is the cheapest and most basic, on generator power.
If Railay prices put you off, stay in Ao Nang and treat Railay as a day trip, which is what most visitors do. The Where to Stay in Krabi guide compares Ao Nang, Railay, Krabi Town and the quieter beaches up the coast.
Railay or Ao Nang?
Stay on Railay for the scenery and the quiet evenings, and in Ao Nang for choice, prices and convenience. Ao Nang has several hundred hotels, the night market and every tour pickup, with Railay 15 minutes away. Railay has the view from your door, but every trip out starts with a boat. For a first trip to Krabi, I'd do two nights on Railay and the rest in Ao Nang.
When to Go
November to April is the dry season on the Andaman coast, and January and February are the driest months, with about 32 mm and 43 mm of rain at Krabi's weather station. It's also high season, when Phra Nang is at its busiest, so the early start matters most then.
The rain builds from May. October is the wettest month at 324 mm, and November is still wet at about 180 mm. The bigger problem in those months is the sea, because swell on the Ao Nang side can hold up or cancel the longtails. The Ao Nam Mao side is calmer, so that's the crossing to use in the monsoon. Mornings are often clear even in the wet season, which suits a day trip if you can be flexible.
Plan the rest of Krabi.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about Railay Beach Guide.
On a small peninsula in Krabi province, on Thailand's Andaman coast, between Ao Nang and Krabi Town. Limestone cliffs cut it off from the mainland, so you can only get there by boat, 10 to 15 minutes by longtail from Ao Nang.
฿100 a person one way and ฿200 return on the shared longtail, bought from the boat club booths on Ao Nang beach. Boats leave when about eight people have gathered, from about 08:00 to 18:00, and the evening fare is about ฿150. After the shared boats stop, a private boat costs about ฿600–800.
Shared longtails leave Chao Fah pier for Railay East when about eight people have gathered, taking about 45 minutes for ฿150, with no timetable. Or take a van or taxi to Ao Nang or Ao Nam Mao and cross from there.
Yes, on Railay West and Phra Nang, which have clear water and sand. Railay East is mangrove and mudflat, and nobody swims there. On Railay West, swim at either end, away from where the longtails land.
Yes. With a ฿200 return ticket from Ao Nang you can see Phra Nang, the viewpoint and Railay West in a day, as long as you're on a boat back by about 18:00. A night or two gets you the beaches before and after the day boats.
Two nights for most people, with one day for the beaches and the viewpoint and one for climbing or an island trip. A day trip from Ao Nang covers the highlights if you're short on time.
There are a few on the peninsula but none on Tonsai, and Thai ATMs charge ฿250–350 per foreign-card withdrawal. Bring enough cash from Ao Nang or Krabi Town.
It's a short, steep scramble with fixed ropes, 10 to 20 minutes up from the path between Railay East and Phra Nang. Wear shoes with grip and skip it after rain. The route on to the lagoon is harder, with a rope down a near-vertical section.
November to April, the dry season, with January and February the driest months. From May to October the rain and rough seas can disrupt the longtails from Ao Nang, and the Ao Nam Mao speedboat is the steadier way across.
Where to stay in Krabi
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Written by
Mac Kiley
I lived in Bangkok for four years and traveled the country from there. The guides are my own opinions, written the way I'd explain them to a friend planning a trip.
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