Lipa Noi Beach

The west coast of Samui doesn't get the crowds, and this stretch is the reason to go looking. The water sits flat and shallow, sheltered enough that you can wade out a long way without anything dramatic happening, which suits families with small kids and anyone who just wants to float. The land behind it stays fairly undeveloped, so you get a local, unpolished feel that's harder to find over on the east side.

What it really does well is sunset. Facing west across the Gulf, the view is wide open with nothing in the way, and late afternoon is when I'd time my arrival. Roll up around four, swim while the heat drops off, stay for the colour.

The trade-off is facilities. There isn't the rank of loungers and beach bars you'd get at Chaweng, so a long day here needs a bit of planning.