Bang Krachao, Bangkok's Green Lung by Bike

Bang Krachao is an artificial island, cut off by a sharp oxbow of the Chao Phraya and a canal across its western end. It covers about 16 km², some 12,000 rai, in Phra Pradaeng district of Samut Prakan province, so technically it's outside Bangkok even though it sits directly across the river from Khlong Toei. Its six subdistricts are farming villages, orchards and mangrove, and in 2006 Time named it Asia's best urban oasis.

It stays green because it's protected from heavy development. After 2016, the government set out to keep 60 percent of the island free of building, with the Royal Forest Department, Kasetsart University and PTT working on its parks. The pressure is real, and one family sold a 6,000 m² plot for up to ฿24 million, so go while the orchards are still orchards.

Most people cross by boat from Wat Khlong Toei Nok Pier, at the end of Sunthonkosa Road in Khlong Toei. Take a Grab or taxi there, since MRT Khlong Toei is about a 30-minute walk, then pay ฿10 for a small boat or ฿20 for a big one at the kiosk. Boats run from about 06:00. Google lists the last at 19:00 and some guides say 20:00, so I'd aim to be back on the Bangkok side by 19:00.

You can also drive across, park on the road in front of Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and rent a bike from the shop beside its gate, or cross from Wat Bang Na Nok pier further south. Organized bike tours from central Bangkok include the crossing and the bike if you'd rather not sort it yourself.

We've cycled the island on each of our visits, and renting a bike is easy. Stands at Bang Kachao Pier charge from about ฿80 a day, and a shop near the park entrance about ฿40. Prices run ฿30–80 depending on the bike, shops open roughly 08:00 to 18:00, and they'll hold your ID until you bring the bike back.

The paths are raised concrete walkways, often barely wider than a bike, through orchards, mangrove and back gardens. They're flat and mostly shaded, but they're shared with motorbikes and people's front doors, so ride slowly, ring before blind corners and give way. Bring water, because shops are few between villages.

We've stopped at cafés along the way on our rides. Hiddenwoods, on the river in Bang Nam Phueng, is the one to aim for, with decks over the water, and the park has its own café for a break mid-loop. Expect city prices for coffee at the riverside places.

On a weekend, eat at the floating market, where the grilled river prawns and Thai sweets are the reason to time your loop for lunch. On weekdays, the small village shops along the paths sell drinks and snacks.

One night lets you ride at dawn, before the day cyclists cross. Bangkok Tree House has tree-top nests and open-air rooms among the trees, with no car access, bike tours and canoeing. Green Lung Pool Villas offers secluded pool villas, and RAKxa is a luxury integrative wellness retreat on the island for a longer, very different stay.

November to January is the best time, when it's cooler, clearer and less humid. From February the heat builds and the air can be hazy, and from about June to October there's more rain, though a morning ride usually fits around it. Weekends add the floating market and more cyclists, and weekdays are quieter. Whatever the month, start by 08:00.

Bring cash for the boat, the bike and snacks, ID for the bike deposit, plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat, insect repellent for the mangrove stretches, and a bag that fits a bike basket.