Bang Po Beach

The north coast is where Samui slows down, and this curved stretch of sand is the proof. There are no big waves here, which makes it easy for families and anyone who just wants to wade in and stand around in warm water. Restaurants, bars and small resorts have claimed most of the frontage, so the beach chairs belong to them, but order something off the menu and one's usually yours for the afternoon.

Two things to set your expectations. The sand is coarse in places rather than powder soft, and there are rocks and reef under the surface in sections, so this isn't the beach for long swims out. Wade, float, don't go far. Walkers do better than swimmers anyway. Head north along the shore and it opens up wider, with tree shade and fewer people the further you go, a couple of kilometres if you've got the time and the light for it.

Come in the off season and you'll have most of it to yourself. Reviewers mention a small local spot called Pad Thai for cheap, good lunches if you need feeding mid-stroll.