Practical guide

The Banana Pancake Trail

Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia in one loop, rerouted around the border that closed

Budget: $25–80/day
Best for: backpackers, solo travelers
Logistics: Moderate
Updated: Nov 12, 2026

By Mac Kiley · 6 min read · Updated Nov 12, 2026

What Is the Banana Pancake Trail?

The Banana Pancake Trail is the backpacker loop through mainland Southeast Asia, usually Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia over two to three months, named for the banana pancakes sold in guesthouses all along it. The classic version starts in Bangkok, goes north to Chiang Mai, crosses the Mekong into Laos, runs the length of Vietnam, cuts west through Cambodia to Angkor and comes back overland into Thailand for the islands.

That last step no longer works. Every land crossing between Thailand and Cambodia has been closed since June 2025, and most route guides still send you through Poipet. This page is the loop as it runs now, leg by leg, with a two-month and a three-month plan, the visa for each country and what the transport costs.

Arriving in Bangkok

Where to stay, city by city

The short answer

Give it two to three months. Go Bangkok, Chiang Mai, the slow boat to Luang Prabang, a flight to Hanoi, down Vietnam to Saigon, the bus to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, then fly back to Bangkok for the islands. Start in November so the north is clear before the smoke season and the beaches are at their best for the finish.

Countries: Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia
Length: 2–3 months; 6–8 weeks if you skip Cambodia
The one change: Cambodia back to Thailand is a flight, since the land border is closed
Best start: November, finishing on the beaches in February or March
Visas: Thailand free for 30 days, Laos about $40, Vietnam free or $25, Cambodia $30
Daily budget: Thailand about $30, Vietnam about $25 (backpacker)

Why the Classic Loop Breaks in 2026

Two things changed. The first is the border. Thailand closed every land crossing with Cambodia on 23 June 2025, the two sides fought in July and December 2025, and on 31 October 2026 Prime Minister Anutin said Thailand has no plans to reopen them. The Siem Reap to Bangkok bus through Poipet and Aranyaprathet, the step most trail guides still print, isn't running, and neither is any other crossing. Cambodia is still easy to reach. You come in overland from Vietnam and leave by air.

The second is the Thai visa. Since 15 September 2026, citizens of 60 countries get 30 days free on arrival instead of 60, extendable once for ฿1,900, and entries by land on the exemption are capped at two a calendar year. The trail enters Thailand twice, once at the start and once for the islands at the end, so each Thai stint has to fit in 30 days or one extension. Leaving Thailand by land doesn't count toward the cap, and the return from Cambodia is now a flight, so the route below uses none of your two land entries.

Planning more than two months in Thailand itself? How Long Can You Stay in Thailand covers the Tourist Visa, the DTV and every other longer option.

The Trail in 2026, Leg by Leg

Leg	How	Time	Cost
Bangkok → Chiang Mai	Sleeper train #9 from Krung Thep Aphiwat	18:40 → 07:15	฿941–1,041 a 2nd-class berth
Chiang Mai → Pai and back (optional)	Minivan	3.5–4 hours each way	฿150–220
Chiang Mai → Chiang Khong (the border)	Green Bus from Terminal 3, 09:30	About 7 hours	฿380–390
Huay Xai → Luang Prabang	Slow boat down the Mekong, a night in Pakbeng	Two days	About 400,000 kip for both legs
Chiang Mai → Luang Prabang (the fast way)	Lao Airlines nonstop	About 50 minutes	Varies by season
Luang Prabang → Vang Vieng → Vientiane	Lao–China railway from Vientiane Railway Station	Fast trains	Varies by class
Luang Prabang or Vientiane → Hanoi	Lao Airlines or Vietnam Airlines nonstop	About 1h05–1h15	Varies by season
Hanoi → Ho Chi Minh City	Overland down the coast, or domestic flights	Two to four weeks with stops	See the plans below
Ho Chi Minh City → Phnom Penh	Bus through Moc Bai–Bavet	About 6–7 hours including the border	Varies by operator; get the Cambodian e-visa first
Siem Reap → Bangkok	Nonstop on Thai AirAsia, Bangkok Airways or Thai Airways (the land border is closed)	About an hour	Varies by season
Bangkok → the islands	Domestic flight, or the night train and ferry	Half a day to overnight	See the island route guides

Going the other way? Every leg runs in reverse. The Laos half can also start from Bangkok on Rapid No. 133, the one train into Laos, leaving Krung Thep Aphiwat at 21:25 and reaching Khamsavath outside Vientiane at 09:05, from ฿281 for a seat. Saigon to Phnom Penh buses mostly leave in the morning, because the border closes in the evening.

Which Way Round?

Clockwise from Bangkok, north first, for most trips. Starting in November gets you to Chiang Mai as the rains end and out of the north before the burning season, which runs from mid-February to April and can bury the mountains in smoke. Northern Vietnam is cool and dry in December and January, central Vietnam around Hoi An dries out in January, and Thailand's Andaman coast, Krabi, Phi Phi and Koh Lanta, is in peak season by the time you get back to it in February.

Run it the other way, islands first, if you're starting in May or later. From May the Gulf islands, Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, are the dry coast, and central Vietnam stays good through August while the north and south turn wet. That version goes Bangkok, the Gulf islands, a flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia, Vietnam south to north, Laos, and back into northern Thailand by the slow boat or the train. Coming back across the Mekong uses one of your two land entries.

The Banana Pancake Trail in 3 Months

Three months is the classic length, and it lets you go overland on almost every leg. This plan starts in early November, spends about 24 days in Thailand at the start and about 21 at the end, so each fits the free 30 days without an extension, and has the land legs where the border is open and a flight where it isn't.

The 3-Month Route, Week by Week

Weeks	Where	What it's for	Getting there
1	Bangkok	The Grand Palace and Wat Pho, Chinatown, the river; getting over the jet lag	Fly in
2–3	Chiang Mai, Pai and Chiang Rai	The old city's temples, Doi Suthep, the night markets, a few nights in Pai	Sleeper train #9 overnight
4	Chiang Khong, the slow boat, Luang Prabang	A day to the border, two days on the Mekong, then the monks' alms round and Kuang Si	Green Bus to Chiang Khong, the bridge, the boat
5–6	Vang Vieng and Vientiane	The karst river valley, then the capital	Lao–China railway
7	Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Ninh Binh	The Old Quarter, a night on the bay, the limestone rice valleys	Fly Vientiane to Hanoi
8–9	Hue, Hoi An, Ho Chi Minh City	The citadel, the lantern-lit old town and tailors, then Saigon's street food	South along the coast
10	Phnom Penh and Siem Reap	The Royal Palace and the genocide memorials, then three days at Angkor	Bus from Saigon through Moc Bai–Bavet
11–13	Thailand's Andaman islands	Krabi and Railay, Phi Phi, Koh Lanta, and a dive course if you want one	Fly Siem Reap to Bangkok, then on to Krabi or Phuket
End	Fly home		From Bangkok or Phuket

Want Laos slower? Drop Vang Vieng and Vientiane and fly from Luang Prabang straight to Hanoi, which gives Vietnam an extra week. Coming in from Europe on a nonstop to Hanoi, start the loop in Vietnam instead and finish it in Thailand.

The Banana Pancake Trail in 2 Months

Two months is enough for Thailand, Laos and Vietnam at a good pace, if you leave Cambodia for another trip. It skips Vang Vieng and Vientiane and flies out of Saigon straight to Phuket, so there's no stop back in Bangkok.

Arriving in Bangkok

Top-Ranked Hotels in Bangkok

The 2-Month Route, Week by Week

Weeks	Where	What it's for	Getting there
1	Bangkok	The temples, Chinatown, the markets	Fly in
2	Chiang Mai	The old city, Doi Suthep, a cooking class	Sleeper train #9 overnight
3	The slow boat and Luang Prabang	Two days on the Mekong, then the old town	Green Bus to Chiang Khong, then the boat
4	Hanoi and Ha Long Bay	The Old Quarter and a night on the bay	Fly Luang Prabang to Hanoi
5	Hoi An and Hue	The old town, the beaches, the citadel	Train or fly south
6	Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta	The war museum, the Cu Chi tunnels, a day on the delta	Fly or overnight bus
7–8	Phuket, Phi Phi and Krabi	Two weeks of islands to finish	Nonstop Saigon to Phuket, about 1h55

Add Cambodia by replacing the Saigon to Phuket flight with the bus to Phnom Penh, a few days at Angkor and the flight from Siem Reap to Bangkok. That needs about nine weeks in all.

Visas for All Four Countries

Country	What most travelers get	Cost	Get it
Thailand	30 days free for 60 countries, extendable once by 30	Free; ฿1,900 to extend	On arrival, plus the Thailand Digital Arrival Card online before each entry
Laos	30-day visa on arrival for most passports	About US$40 in cash, with a passport photo	At Friendship Bridge IV (Chiang Khong), or the official e-visa
Vietnam	45 days free for the UK and much of Europe; e-visa up to 90 days for everyone else	Free, or $25 single / $50 multiple entry	evisa.gov.vn before you fly
Cambodia	30-day tourist e-visa	$30	The official e-visa site, about three working days; Bavet accepts it

Americans, Canadians and Australians need the Vietnam e-visa; Britons don't. Laos asks for six months' passport validity and two blank pages, and you'll want space for four countries' stamps. Bring the Lao visa fee in US dollars cash.

What the Trail Costs

Item	Cost	Notes
Thailand per day	About $30 backpacker / $80 mid-range	The site's travel costs page
Vietnam per day	About $25 backpacker / $70 mid-range	Food and beer run at about half the Thai price
Visas (Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam e-visa)	About $95; about $70 if your passport gets Vietnam free	Thailand is free; ฿1,900 if you extend
Sleeper train, Bangkok to Chiang Mai	฿941–1,041	Saves a night's room
Bus to Chiang Khong and the slow boat	About ฿390 plus 400,000 kip	Packages from about ฿2,700 include a night's room
Two or three short flights	Varies by season	Into Hanoi, out of Siem Reap or Saigon, and to the islands

Daily figures are before long-haul flights. The Thailand on a Budget guide has the Thai costs line by line.

What Catches People Out

Following a route through Poipet

Every Thai–Cambodian land crossing is closed. Book the flight from Siem Reap or Phnom Penh to Bangkok before you get to Cambodia.

Running over 30 days in Thailand

Each Thai stint gets 30 days. Spend six weeks in Thailand at the start and you'll need the ฿1,900 extension, or a fine at the airport. Count the days before you plan the north.

Forgetting the arrival card on re-entry

The Thailand Digital Arrival Card is one per entry. File a new one up to three days before you fly back from Cambodia or Vietnam.

Central Vietnam in October and November

It's typhoon season around Hoi An and Hue. A November start reaches the center in January, after the worst of it.

The north in March

Chiang Mai and northern Laos burn from mid-February to April, and the smoke can be heavy. Do the north first, or skip it late in the season.

Each leg in Thailand has its own guide with the timetables and fares.

Backpacking Thailand Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang Bangkok to Vientiane Thailand and Vietnam Itinerary How Long Can You Stay in Thailand?Thailand on a Budget Best Time to Visit Thailand

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about The Banana Pancake Trail.

The classic backpacker route through Southeast Asia, usually Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia over two to three months. It's named for the banana pancakes guesthouses along the route started selling to Western backpackers.

Two to three months for the full loop through four countries. Six to eight weeks covers Thailand, Laos and Vietnam if you leave out Cambodia, and some people stretch it to six months by adding Malaysia, Indonesia or the Philippines.

Yes, with one flight. The Thai–Cambodian land border has been closed since June 2025, so the leg from Cambodia back to Thailand is a flight from Siem Reap or Phnom Penh rather than the bus through Poipet. Every other leg, including the slow boat into Laos and the bus from Saigon to Phnom Penh, runs as before.

Usually Bangkok, which has the cheapest long-haul flights into the region and the easiest first week. From Europe, starting in Hanoi on a nonstop flight works as well, finishing on Thailand's islands.

About $25–30 a day as a backpacker in Thailand and Vietnam, plus about $95 in visas for Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, or about $70 if your passport gets into Vietnam free. Long-haul flights, two or three short flights and any dive course are on top.

Thailand gives 60 nationalities 30 days free on each arrival. Laos has a 30-day visa on arrival of about US$40. Vietnam is free for 45 days for the UK and much of Europe and a $25 e-visa for the US, Canada and Australia. Cambodia's tourist e-visa is $30 for 30 days.

Yes. Each entry is a fresh 30 days, and entries by air aren't limited. Entries by land are capped at two a calendar year, and the 2026 route uses none of them, since you leave Thailand by land and come back by air.

Start in November. Northern Thailand is clear of the rains and the smoke from November to January, central Vietnam is past its typhoon season by January, and Thailand's Andaman islands are at their best when you arrive in February or March.

From Chiang Mai, take the bus to Chiang Khong, cross Friendship Bridge IV to Huay Xai and ride the two-day slow boat to Luang Prabang. From Bangkok, Rapid No. 133 runs overnight to Vientiane. Lao Airlines also flies Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang in about 50 minutes.

Sources

The border status, visa fees and flight times on this page come from these pages. Schedules and fees change; check before you book.

Thailand has no plans to reopen Cambodia border crossings, PM says (opens in new tab) · Bangkok Scoop. Anutin's 31 October 2026 statement
New 30-day and 15-day visa exemption rules from 15 September (opens in new tab) · Tourism Authority of Thailand Newsroom. The 30-day exemption, the 60 countries and the two-per-year land cap
Cambodia e-visa fee reductions (effective 1 January 2025) (opens in new tab) · KPMG Cambodia. Tourist e-visa cut from $36 to $30
Vietnam e-visa (opens in new tab) · Vietnam Immigration Department. The official e-visa application
Direct flights from Luang Prabang to Hanoi (opens in new tab) · FlightConnections. Lao Airlines and Vietnam Airlines nonstops
Direct flights from Bangkok to Siem Reap (opens in new tab) · FlightConnections. Nonstops to the new Siem Reap airport
Laos entry requirements (opens in new tab) · UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office. Visa on arrival, six months' passport validity, two blank pages

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Written by

Mac Kiley

I lived in Bangkok for four years and traveled the country from there. The guides are my own opinions, written the way I'd explain them to a friend planning a trip.

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