Racha Seafood

The menu here moves with the boats, which is the whole point. Grilled fish, prawns, squid, whatever the rivermouth at Pak Nam has given up that day, cooked to order in plain Thai style. Ask what's good rather than reading down a list and you'll eat better.

Don't come expecting a view-with-cocktails setup. This is a casual local restaurant, open-sided and unfussy, and the appeal is that nobody's dressing it up for tourists. It works equally well for a long lunch or a proper sit-down dinner with a few plates in the middle of the table. If you want a quieter room, aim either side of the obvious peaks, roughly noon to 1.30pm and 6 to 8pm, when it fills up with people who clearly come often.

Sunday is the one to know about. The kitchen opens at 8.30am, hours before the 11am start the rest of the week, and shuts earlier at 9pm.