Pak Khlong Talat (Flower Market)

Flowers stacked to the ceiling, garlands being strung by hand, and men hauling sacks of marigolds off trucks at hours when the rest of Bangkok is asleep. This is a working wholesale market first and a sight second, which is exactly why it's worth an hour of your time. It sits on the river south of Chinatown, in Phra Nakhon, and it runs around the clock.

There's a real split between inside and out. The sidewalk stalls along the outside are where the cut flowers and made-up arrangements are, and that's what most people come for. Inside you get a more general market of food stalls, vegetables, butchers. Do walk down the small alleys, because the density of flowers back there is the thing people remember. Prices are wholesale, so a couple of big bouquets can cost very little. There are food stalls, cafés and restaurants all around the surrounding streets, so pair it with breakfast.

Early morning is the peak of the trade, but early afternoon still has plenty of shops open. It's grubby in places. That's the point.