Phuket to Koh Yao Yai

Bang Rong is the small pier on Phuket's northeast coast that serves both Yao islands. Speedboats to Koh Yao Yai leave at about 08:30, 09:30, 10:30, 11:00, 12:30, 13:30, 14:30, 15:00, 16:00 and 17:00 and take about 30 minutes, for about ฿390–400. Children pay about half on most boats.

Several of them carry on to Koh Yao Noi after dropping you, so you'll share the boat with people bound for the other island. Buy a ticket at the pier or ahead online, which is worth doing in the December and January peak, and treat the times as a guide, because the board changes with the season.

The public boats land at one of two piers on the north of the island. Klong Hia is on the northwest corner, with Baan Rim Nam's restaurant built out over the water beside it, and the 08:30 and 15:00 boats and Bundhaya's boats from Rassada are listed landing there. Chong Lard is on the north tip, facing Manoh pier on Koh Yao Noi, and the 09:30, 11:00, 13:30 and 17:00 boats land there before going on to Koh Yao Noi.

The two piers are close, but your hotel may not be. Laem Haad's sandbar is a short ride from Chong Lard, while Loh Pared and the west-coast resorts are 18 to 20 km south. Tell your hotel which boat you're on and which pier, and let it meet you.

Bang Rong is 16 km from the airport, 25 to 40 minutes by car, and the airport taxi counter has charged about ฿650 for the ride. 12Go also sells van-and-boat tickets from arrivals. The last speedboat leaves at 17:00, so a flight landing after about 15:30 is a gamble. If yours lands late, stay a night near the airport and take a morning boat.

From the west-coast beaches, Bang Rong is a long drive across the island, so a van-and-boat ticket that collects you from your hotel is the easy option, from about ฿800.

From Phuket Town, Bundhaya's speedboat leaves Rassada pier at 09:00 and reaches Klong Hia in about 50 minutes for ฿550, with a second boat at 13:00 from November to April, and the service runs from late October to mid-May. One speedboat a day leaves Laem Hin pier, east of the Old Town, at 13:00 for Klong Hia.

Some of the island's big resorts bring guests over on their own boats, and those ignore the public timetable. Santhiya's shared speedboat leaves Ao Po Grand Marina, north of Bang Rong, and takes about 20 minutes, charged per person. If you've booked a large resort, ask it about transfers before you buy anything, because its boat may land you at its own beach rather than at a public pier.

There are fewer boats back. 12Go lists speedboats from Koh Yao Yai to Bang Rong at about 06:30, 10:30, 11:30 and 15:00, and Bundhaya's boats leave Klong Hia for Rassada at 11:00 and 15:00 in season. Ask your hotel for the day's board.

If none fits, cross to Koh Yao Noi. The longtail from Chong Lard to Manoh takes about 10 minutes, and Koh Yao Noi has speedboats to Bang Rong from about 06:15 to 16:00. For a flight, allow about 30 minutes on the boat and 25 to 40 minutes from Bang Rong to the airport, and be there two hours before departure.

Koh Yao Yai is about 87 km², more than twice the size of Koh Yao Noi, and there's no regular transport, so most people rent a scooter for about ฿250–350 a day once they've reached their hotel. The main roads are paved and quiet, but the side tracks are dirt and nothing is lit at night.

Carry cash from Phuket. There are several ATMs, but they can be empty. My Koh Yao Yai guide covers the beaches, the tides and where to stay.