Hua Thanon Fish Market

Come here for the morning, not the afternoon. This is a working neighbourhood market in Ban Hua Thanon, run by and for the local Muslim fishing community, and by the time the sun is high the best of the catch has already gone. Get there early and you'll see the fish laid out at their freshest, alongside meat, fruit and vegetables that reflect what's actually landed and grown nearby rather than what visitors are assumed to want.

The stalls sit under cover, so there's shade and shelter if the weather turns. What there isn't is polish. Floors get wet, the smell is exactly what you'd expect, and nobody is putting on a show for cameras. That's the appeal, and it's why I'd send anyone tired of Chaweng's shopping strips down the south coast for an hour. Buy something, even if it's just fruit. It changes how the visit feels.