Ramkhamhaeng Night Market

Come hungry and bring cash. This is a proper neighbourhood night market out on Ramkhamhaeng Road in Bang Kapi, built around the university crowd rather than tourists, and the food is the reason to make the trip. Halal stalls are the backbone of it, with Malay-leaning clothing and groceries alongside, though halal and non-halal vendors sit side by side so nobody's excluded. Prices sit somewhere between cheap and moderate, which is what happens when your regulars are students.

The layout is the thing people get wrong. It runs in an L, and if you walk the main stretch and turn back you'll miss a sizeable chunk of it. Walk the whole length first, then double back to whatever you liked. It gets crowded, and I'd count that as a good sign rather than a warning. Early evening, once everything's set up, gives you the widest choice.