Chiangmai Art Museum

Contemporary art this good would be mobbed if it sat in the old city. Instead it's out in Mae On, a drive of roughly 30 to 45 minutes from Chiang Mai depending on traffic, which is exactly why you'll have the galleries close to yourself. Two exhibition rooms, oversized canvases in loud colour, large sculptures, and pottery with a sense of humour about itself. It isn't a huge collection. It doesn't need to be.

What lifts it above a standard gallery stop is that artists actually live on the site, in small wooden houses scattered around the grounds, and you can wander among them. That gives the place a working, lived-in feel rather than the hush of a museum. There's a rustic cafe too, worth building into your visit rather than treating as an afterthought. Give it 90 minutes minimum. Rushing this one defeats the point.