Lulum Restaurant Chiang Rai

Northern Thai food here comes as it should, which means the curries carry real heat and the menu wanders into territory some travellers won't have met before. Raw prawns, larb-style raw pork, pork brains cooked down until they're closer to a fishcake in texture. None of that is compulsory, but it tells you this kitchen isn't cooking down to the tourist palate. If your spice tolerance is modest, say so when you order. The staff know the menu inside out and are good at steering people towards something they'll actually enjoy.

It's a big place, both indoors and out, with the outdoor tables facing the water. That's where you want to sit, and the reason to arrive around 5 to 5.30pm is the sunset over the river. It fills up in the evenings, so early is your friend. Riverside in Chiang Rai also means hot air in the late afternoon, which is exactly what cold beer was invented for. Mid-range prices, generous enough for a group to share a spread without much thought.