Siri Wattana Market

The pork stall is the one people remember. A man who roasts nothing else, sells it by weight, and has enough repeat customers that reviewers name-check him. That tells you what kind of place this is: not a market laid on for tourists, but a daily food market for the Chang Phueak neighbourhood that happens to be very welcoming if you turn up curious.

Fresh fruit, vegetables, fish and meat fill most of it, with home-cooked curries and stir-fries, fruit smoothies, Thai sweets and street food alongside. Around the edges you'll find clothing, cosmetics and bed linen shops, plus a covered area next door with stalls and seating if you want to eat there rather than carry it away. The walkways are tight and they fill up, so shopping here is a shuffle, not a stroll. Go early if you want the best produce and room to breathe. It's about 15 minutes north of the North Gate, which is far enough to keep the crowds thinner than the markets in the centre.