Lhong 1919

Go in knowing that most of the shops are shut. This 19th-century Chinese merchant mansion on the Chao Phraya's west bank, built in the reign of Rama III, is mid-redevelopment, with a five-star hotel apparently on the way and a large construction site pressing in around the courtyards. Reviewers keep using words like "lost place" and "eerie". If you want a lively riverside market, this isn't it and you'll leave grumpy.

What's still here is the good part. Sino-Thai architecture, faded hand-painted murals, and a shrine holding idols brought over from China, all wrapped around courtyards that photograph beautifully when they're empty. Which is most of the time. A kiosk and a souvenir shop were the extent of the trading when recent visitors passed through, so eat elsewhere. The river zone is fenced off for works and cars can't get in. I'd give it an hour, on a weekday, and pair it with something else rather than crossing town for it alone.