Wat Tha Ka Rong

This is the Ayutthaya temple that splits people in half, and you should know which half you're likely to land in before you go. It's a genuine working monastery, said to date to the mid-16th century, but over the years it has picked up robotic figures, animatronic mannequins, oversized models of famous monks and a floating market where the trade is largely in merit rather than souvenirs. Reviewers use words like Disneyland and kitsch. Others use words like soul. Both are fair.

What I like about it is that the place keeps unfolding. You think you've seen the lot, then there's another courtyard, another shrine, another robotic panda near the toilets. Locals are actually worshipping while all this goes on, which is the interesting part. Go on a weekday if you can. The parking lots and seating suggest it gets heaving at weekends. One visitor warns that the steps can be wet and grubby, which matters when you're padding around in socks.