Khao Nam Pu Nature and Wildlife Education Center

Banteng are the reason to make the drive. This is a breeding and reintroduction centre for the red wild cattle that are nearly impossible to spot in the forest, and here there's a decent herd of them in large enclosures. Reviewers note the males run darker than the females, and that the animals, tame as they are, will back off if you crowd the fence. If a ranger is around, ask questions. People who've done that came away with a proper explanation of the breeding programme rather than a signboard summary.

The other half of the visit is environmental education, including reforestation with seed-launching slingshots, which children tend to love and adults quietly enjoy too. There's a camping area on site, and campers describe cold, quiet nights with very little around. That's the appeal and the catch. This isn't a polished attraction and it isn't trying to be, so if you want cafés and gift shops, look elsewhere.